I spent the rest of that week catching up with family and friends, and celebrated my 28th birthday, some of the highlights being a Thanksgiving dinner with the family, presenting my travels to some students that were very eager to learn more about volunteering, a Halloween dinner with my girls, as well as a major pampering session, complete with manicure, pedicure, and hairdo, new outfit, and dinner out on my actual birthday (see picture). I also spent the week trying to wrap up my time in Màncora, and re-packing everything for the next and last leg of my year of travel.
I arrived in Cusco Sunday the 4th of November, and flying in was absolutely incredible. I had to ask myself if I was still in Perù, having only seen the coast and being on the beach for 3 months...it was breathtaking to cruise right past snow-capped Andean peaks, and look down at all the other mountains surrounding Cusco...I was actually a little apprehensive landing, as it didn`t appear that there was going to be a flat enough space to even land a tiny plane! I was met at the airport by my homestay here in Cusco, who brought me back to the hostel where I would be spending the next 
2 days. Cusco actually means "navel" in Quechua, the language of the Incas (which originally meant king, but has now come to refer to all people of that descent), since it sits in the crevice of surrounding mountainous peaks, and nighttimes are the most spectacular as the house lights of the dwellings built up the hillsides come on and the view is just incredible as you turn 360 degrees to take it all in! The architecture is pretty spectacular as well...some of the original Incan buildings and walls still stand, sometimes side by side with the conquering Spanish-syle structures. My first sunset was magnificent, the sky and clouds over the city turned the most gorgeous pinks and oranges. I was surprised how warm it was during the day, but boy did it get chilly after the sun went down! I think I had about 5 
blankets on my bed when I arrived which I thought was a bit much, but as I slipped under them that night and it seemed like I had 5 lead aprons on (the kind you have to wear whenever you get an xray), I was very thankful! I would much rather be warm than suffocate I decided. I wasn`t reminded of Cusco`s altitude of 3200 meters until I went up 3 short flights of stairs at the hostel, and was panting by the time I got to the top. My bottles of toiletries also exploded too when I opened them up...they were greatly relieved to be opened, having expanded so much in the thinner air. As soon as I arrived from the airport, the woman at the hostel had a cup of tea ready for me, and when I asked her what kind it was after taking a few sips and deciding it wasn`t like anything I had had before, I could have sworn she said it was some form of coco, or coconut. Well that night at dinner, when I got to choose my own teabag, I saw the label with it`s 3-leafed plant and realized it was "coca" that she had said. For those of you not familiar with altitude, the coca leaf is often used to remedy the symptoms that come with being high up in the Andes, as well as the original source for producing cocaine. I have been assured that drinking the tea is non-habit forming though. The next 2 days were spent relaxing in Cusco, and I was able to walk around this amazing city that is steeped in history. It`s all centered around one main plaza, and just off the plaza is a maze of winding, steep, cobblestoned streets that just beg you to explore them. There are plenty of artesan caches, vending their wares from alpaca hide blankets to bright, multi-colored woven bags, hats, gloves, etc. that are usually depicted in any tourist`s picture of Peruvians. My last evening in Cusco before heading to my project, I was meandering around the main square and got to see a parade being put on by a local school. Every grade was dressed in costume depicting different periods in Cusco`s history. From brightly colored dresses that swung out as the girls wearing them spun around, to the boys in full gaucho costume. It was beautiful, and the lights were just starting to come on around the city and on its hillsides as the sun was setting...it was truly magical!
I was delayed by a day in getting to my project, as the bus that would have taken me most of the way was full on Monday, so instead, I was picked up on Tuesday by the coordinator of the project and we nabbed the next bus. After 2 hours, and driving through the most breathtaking, sweeping panoramas of river, mountains, and remote villages, we disembarked from the bus to pile into a taxi (8 people plus baggage in a 5-person vehicle), and drove the remaining 30 minutes to the pueblo of Pomacanchi, where my last project for the year is located. Pomacanchi is 
basically the end of the line, being one of many villages surrounding a very large lake which the town is named after. The village of Pomacanchi is a little bit higher than Cusco, sitting at 3600 meters. There is one main square and then the town spreads out in houses in a half-mile radius around the main square. The main municipal building houses the only internet cafe, and one common telephone that if you receive a phone call, your name is broadcast over the PA system until you present yourself to answer it. So no matter if you`re occupied with shampoo in your hair, or sitting on the toilet, you better get there quick as you only have 5 minutes once they announce your name! There are a few tiendas, or small general stores, for things such as bread and water, some produce items as well.
The program I have been placed at is named Hatun Sonqo, which means big heart in Quechua. The center is an afterschool program for about 50 children in total, although we don`t have more than 30-40 any given day. There are also between 7-11 children that stay at the center because it is a more stable environment for them than home would be, as alcoholism is a very large social issue here. All of the children come from homes where the parent(s) work during the day, and instead of coming back from school to an empty house, they come to the center for lunch, English lessons, crafts, games, and as many hugs as they will let us give them. The kiddos start wandering in around 1 pm, and the last one is gone by 8 pm. They range in age from 4 years old to teenagers, and are a very energetic bunch. When they arrive each afternoon, they must sign in, let us know if they have homework and if they need help, show us their notebooks, then they can have lunch. If they don`t have homework, we have other activities for them, or just play. English classes are later in the afternoon, separated into 3 groups by ages, and then we do a craft activity with them, followed by finishing homework, and then they get a light dinner before they go home. I am currently one of 8 volunteers at the center, only 2 of us are with i-to-i, the remaining 6 are with an organization based in Spain, so it works out wonderfully that there are so many volunteers already fluent in Spanish! I´m also finding it a challenge to understand Spanish all over again it seems, as the accent from Spain is completely different than Perù to my ears!
My accommodation is at the center itself, as there are 3 rooms for the volunteers to share. The center rents half of a house from the woman that owns the house and that occupies the other half of the house, with a common courtyard. There is one bathroom with a Western-style toilet, and running water in the courtyard that is used for all washing. There is no shower, but I have decided that I would not want to remove any clothing to do so anyway, as it can get pretty cold when the sun goes in. I try to soak up as much of the sun as possible, preferring to roast and remember it when I`m shivering in the stiff wind at night. So on weekends, the volunteers head into Cusco, not only to shower and do some proper grocery shopping, but also return to civilization. The volunteers have a set rotation for chores around the center (i.e. cleaning the loo, preparing breakfast for those children that stay at the center, making dinner, dishes, etc.). This project has taken the most getting used to, and I think I`m still settling in, as it is solely run by the volunteers, whereas before I stayed with host families or in a volunteer house separate from the project. In addition, the projects I was working with before had locals running them, that when I left, they would continue the project regardless if there was another volunteer present. I can`t imagine coming into this project without older volunteers present to orient the newbies and explain the goings-on of the center. There is a brother and sister that are in charge of the project, and visit the center frequently, monitoring the work that is being done. There is also a woman that cooks lunch for the volunteers and the children, and dinner for the children. But other than that, the volunteers are the heart and soul of this program. And speaking of the cook, I have decided that my first week has been the ultimate gustatory adventure, as the lunches have included such things as chicken feet soup, cow feet stew (which is really just cartilage, no meat), and a sort of stir-fry of brains (not sure what the animal was, but then again, does it really matter?) The last one I didn`t realize what it was until the next day, so I did end up imbibing some of it, and wondering what it could be...I think I remember identifying it (incorrectly) as a variety of seafood, given it`s squishy texture and salty taste. I chalk it up to a possible future appearance on Fear Factor, the TV show where they make the contestants scarf down the most disgusting things imaginable.
Being in this remote of a location does have its advantages, as I`m reminded each night when I look up at the sky and see what seems like a million more stars than what I can usually see at home...definitely no light pollution out here! I have done some conditioning this week too, once I allowed myself to acclimatize...my first game of fùtbol with the older boys was great fun, and now they want to play every day, but I have made it clear that they can play only after they finish their homework. I also trekked with 2 other volunteers 
to Pomacanchi Lake, mentioned previously. The views were spectacular as we got to climb up a little higher over the endless fields surrounded by soaring mountain peaks...I have to keep reminding myself that I`m actually in the Andes Mountain Range...it`s unfathomable at times! See attached picture of the magnificent expanse of the lake...I didn`t go in, but I`m sure the water is freezing! So definitely more huffing and puffing than normal, but when you`re at 3500+ meters high in the atmosphere, what else is there to expect really?So my first week has come to an end and I am now finishing up this entry while seated in an internet cafe in Cusco, after a nice, long, hot shower. The remaining volunteers and I arrived this morning to join the volunteers that arrived yesterday. It`s a beautiful sunny day, chill in the air though, and I can`t wait to do more exploring! And for those of you counting down...3 weeks til Machu Picchu!!
