Running & Head Wobbling in the "Place of Thunderbolts"

I'm running again!! Went running for the first time here on Wednesday morning, after finally getting a decent night's sleep! I did about 3 km, and it was about 2/3's of the way around the loop I was doing, when I hit an uphill, that I got really winded and had to walk, but I'm blaming it on the hills and the altitude...have no fear, I'll get there!! My route is through a part of town called the Chowrasta, which is a big market, then a loop around Observatory Hill on Bhanu Bhakta Sarani, with probably the best views in Darjeeling (again when it's clear). Others out and about at 6 in the morning (which I've come to realize as being late, since most have been up since 4:30 when the sun rises) were lots of people doing yoga along the route, interestingly enough only men, and a few other runners and a lot more walking, in their track suits no less! Now, being white in India draws enough attention, but a whole new level of gawking is attained by being white and running at the same time! At least I'm not having "Mzungu" shouted at me like in Africa by every other person on the street! Now, the second morning I went running, which was today (Friday), I happened to notice that I was the only one going around the loop in a counterclockwise direction. After I returned to the hostel, I told this observation to the major who runs the hostel and he informed me that the reason I'm the only one going in that direction is because the typical method of prayer and all things traditionally religious in India (prayer wheels, ceremonies, parades, etc.) move in a CLOCKWISE direction! So I felt like a complete maroon and will modify my route accordingly to better align myself with the culture here...come to think of it, maybe that's why there was so much staring occurring, and it will also be easier as it will be more downhill too. So there you have it...I'm continuing to learn as I go.

There are lots of Indian tourists up from the plains now, as it's much cooler here, and the shopkeepers and number of stalls along the streets have increased exponentially as a result. I have to share the interesting difference I've noticed between the native tourists and those from Darjeeling: mainly with regards to the concept of personal space and the above mentioned staring. Those from Darjeeling give you plenty of space and really don't give a second look, whereas it's the exact opposite coming from the plains-dwellers. The rest of India should be fun...this culture absolutely fascinates and intrigues me--I love it!!

Another cultural tidbit unique to this country and a concept I'm trying to become well-versed at...the art of the head wobble. Indians are adept at this gem of non-verbal communication. I will try to explain it as best I can: when a 'yes', 'ok', or 'maybe' or even an 'I completely agree with you' response is appropo, the person will bend their head laterally bringing one ear down slightly towards the ipsilateral shoulder, then bend their head the opposite way, usually repeating this twice or three times in quick fashion. I have gotten so used to this in a week's time that I don't even need a verbal response combined with the head wobble to know what the person's answer is...the head wobble itself is sufficient. Additionally, I have noticed that when I use the head wobble, it immediately assimilates me into the culture a bit more and I reach a new level of belonging, especially coming in handy when bartering...that's how much a part of the conversation it is here.

Now on to my last lesson of the week that I have learned...I was told when I first arrived here that Darjeeling means "Place of Thunderbolts"...in Nepali, I believe. I was curious as to why until the other night when I was laying awake staring at the ceiling (still trying to get over this jet lag). My room suddenly lit up like someone began flickering the lights, so I ran to the window and out over the valley spread before me and just over the far hills was the most terrific electrical storm...lightning bolt after lightning bolt, jumping from cloud to cloud so rapidly it was like someone was setting off fireworks in the clouds!! It was incredible to watch and I sat mesmerized for a good 15 minutes, the whole storm probably lasting about an hour and a half (I know since I was still staring at the ceiling until about 1 AM). It's far enough away that there is absolutely no sound of thunder accompanied with the lightning, so it makes it even more spectacular of a light show! I did get to see about the clearest view yet of those far hills during daylight hours yesterday (Thursday)...about 3 mountain ranges over!! Sometimes it feels like it's so close to clearing, and I've almost gone off the road or run into people trying so hard to catch a glimpse of the Himalayas sitting right there on the horizon instead of watching where I'm going. It will be incredible I'm sure when it does clear enough to see them!

So there we go...my first week in India on my 7th continent...can life get any better? I submit that it cannot!!