JK Tours: Machu Picchu & Cusco 2007...

JK Tours arrived safe and sound and right on schedule bright and early Friday morning! I was at the airport and ready to run into a pair of waiting arms as soon as I saw the group come out of baggage claim, and what a great reunion it was, not only with Charles, but also with some college friends and of course my travel dad, one Jeff Keith, who is what you would call the CEO of JK Tours. There were also several others in the group that I was meeting for the first time, and in total there were 9 of us that set off from the airport after meeting Wilbur, our guide for the week. The group was definitely a little tired, not only from the lack of sleep due to travelling by red eye, but also given the fact they were coming from sea level and landing at 3200 meters! Hence the reason for taking it easy the first few days after arriving. Once aboard the bus, we wound through the streets of Cusco, then up and over the mountains surrounding the city, heading directly into the Sacred Valley. First stop was the famous Pisac Market, which takes up several blocks of the town of Pisac, and has so many vendors and stalls, it's impossible to see it all in one visit. Loading up on souvenirs, from handcrafted leather goods and woven textiles (blankets, hats, gloves, pillow cases, etc.) to the multitude of other crafts, it's a fun challenge to find that one thing that no other vendor seems to be selling! And bartering is the name of the game, which if I do say so myself, I have gotten pretty good at, plus being almost fluent in the native language always helps to bring the price down considerably! We arrived in the early afternoon at the very nice Casona Yucay hotel, which seemed to be nestled right in the center of the Sacred Valley, mountains soaring up from the lush green plains and the Urubamba river cutting right down the middle of it all. After a delicious lunch, and a welcome nap, we headed into the town to see the sights and visit a local pub, and play a few rounds of sapo, a sort of target practice/skeeball gametable with different point-valued holes that you try to throw metal rings into. The very center target is a wide-mouthed toad, and the most points obviously, as that is the most difficult. The lady "barkeeper" informed us that men of the village spend hours at this game, enjoying huge glass after glass of chicha, a sweet corn beer brewed in huge urns over the course of several days. We got to sample some of this, along with chicha fresa, or strawberry chicha, which was a big hit. This pub was also the group's first encounter with the concept of the guinea pig farm, or a huge room in the back where there's at least 2 dozen guinea pigs running around freely until they find themselves on a spit, about to be dinner. We also learned that local bars in this area are marked with a red flag, so with this knowledge, we counted about 10 just on the way back to the hotel, most being people's houses!

The next day we went to see the Inca ruins in Ollantaytambo, another city nestled in the Sacred Valley. The ruins here are pretty famous, so a visit was a must. The name of the town refers to corn in Quechua, and after climbing the temple steps and looking out over the town that is layed out in the shape of a corn cob, it was easy to see why. We explored the ruins with Wilbur our guide pointing out various things that were built to create special effects when the sun passed a certain way in the sky, usually only on the solstices, or water tourrets that when you lightly ran a finger over the lip of the fountain, completely changed the flow of the water due to the surface tension and volume of water in the pool...absolutely incredible how scientific these people were with such rough instruments and so early on! And to view a figure carved out of the mountain opposite the temple, in the shape of one of the great Incan kings, incorporating a grainary that looked like it was perched so precariously that any attempt to get a load of grain up to it was risking life and limb, was another jaw-dropper of a feat!

The highlight of the day though, was definitely white water rafting on the Urubamba! We split up between 2 rafts, couples and Wilbur vs. the rest of the group! Our competition was that for every person that fell into the river, that was one point, and the team with the most points at the end had to buy drinks for the other team that night! So in between gazing at the amazing beauty of the mountains and the river, once even seeing glaciers up high on some of the mountains, we were devising ways of attack and getting the other team soaking wet! Well, the last stretch of the river before we took out, the other team purposely flipped their boat, amazingly everyone scrambling up on the top of the bottom of the raft and not falling in, so we thought immediately...our golden opportunity since they had nothing to hold onto! We moved in for one last drawn out battle, which turned into a deadlock, but then in a surprise move, the rafting guide from the other team leapt onto our boat, knocking one of our members into the water, causing us a point, and needless to say, even after a last ditch effort to take their guide out, we ended up ponying up for drinks that night...pisco sours all around!

The next day we set out to start the Inca Trail. Rising early in the morning, we got to the trail head, met our porters and the rest of our team, including the waiter and cook (booyah, this is the way to hike any mountain!), and we were off after checking in at the gate to get the i's dotted and t's crossed on our permits. The first part of the day was great hiking, nice gradual slopes and expansive views of the mountains and valleys. After an amazing lunch that we enjoyed looking right over the valley where we had just hiked, and our first introduction to "Senor Manos Blancos," or Mister White Hands, as our waiter wore white gloves whenever he served us!, the grade increased a bit and we definitely started feeling the altitude. We had a great view of some Incan ruins along the way, and as the afternoon seemed to be a bit long, we thankfully arrived at our campsite just before sunset. An example of how the locals have made a business out of living right along the trail, a woman had set up a small "bar" at our campsite, which entailed an ice-filled bucket with cold sodas, water, and gatorade!

The next day started early and all of us mentally preparing for the long day ahead, as anyone hiking the Inca Trail knows that day 2 is the toughest, hiking all the way up to Dead Woman's Pass, being the highest point on the trail at 13,777 feet. Some members of the group were also ailing from a rough night before, with some gastrointestinal issues. On a side note, having a rating scale (0-5) for GI health was THE best way to check in with people to see how they were doing. People coming back to the camp from the toilet were usually asked right away, "Ok, what's your number?" The company we went with for this trek always had a toilet tent set up for us when we stopped for lunch and then wherever we would make camp for the night. This special little 3' x 3' tent involved a small toilet seat stool with a plastic bag liner. The challenge was to not tip the whole apparatus over while completing your hygiene, which was my greatest fear each time I visited the toilet tent. And one other note, let's just say that you'd better have a pretty strong stomach if you were the last one to use it at night or in the morning before we set out. Needless to say, the porter assigned to that duty got a bit extra for his tip...poor guy.

OK, so now that you are probably asking where do I sign up?, back to day 2...the pace was slow going, and the sun was out quite a bit, so it was pleasantly warm. Since the altitude is such a factor, the hiking involved taking 10 steps and then resting, taking another 10 steps and then resting a bit more. (Arthur & Tara--would just like to say again that you guys are my new heroes for gettin' it done that day!) At this part of the trail, we also encountered our first stairs, which make up a large portion of trail, 8,400 steps to be exact. The stone staircases seem to go on forever, and the steps are quite large at times, so much so that after about 5, my hamstrings and quads were screaming. The views were worth ever step though...as we climbed higher, the clouds pulled away to reveal the most magnificent peaks across the valley capped by glaciers, and with the sun shining down on them, it was just breathtakingly beautiful! Our spot for lunch was a rock outcropping overlooking the valley and these same peaks, and afterwards we set off again up toward the pass that we could now visibly see. The wind had picked up a little bit, and more clouds were occasionally rolling in, but overall it was still a nice day, even though it kept getting chillier the higher we went and the closer we got to the top. The name Dead Woman's Pass is quite alarming, but it is so named because of the rock formations at the top looking like a dead or sleeping woman. About an hour after lunch, and the group having spread out along the trail given our different hiking abilities, Charles and I decided to take a break as the going was getting quite tough. I pulled out an orange and started eating it, becoming quite messy as one does when eating an orange. Looking out over the sweeping valley below us and only 500 meters from the top, we started to talk about the year we have had...quite a year, with blood clots, a whirlwind tour of India, and now in Peru, about to come home for good, together. As I turned to face him, I found him down on one knee, to which I immediately asked, given the altitude and how much we had been struggling, "Oh my gosh, are you all right?!" He started laughing, and then I saw the ring in his hand as he asked me to marry him! Of course I said yes, and then upon reaching the top, we shared the news with everyone, including a group of Brazilians that were cheering right along with us! We captured this particular moment all on video, which I've attempted to attach to the blog, so hopefully it can be viewed just by clicking on it.

It was pretty windy and cold at the top, so after celebrating, we started down the other side of the pass, making our way toward camp for that night. It was pretty cloudy by the time we got in, close to sunset again, but the view awaiting us the next morning as we climbed out of our tents and ate breakfast as the sun came up over the mountains was absolutely incredible, as the clouds settled into the valley revealing more peaks covered by glaciers. Shortly after starting out, we hit some Incan ruins, and then it was a bit further, up all the way, to the 2nd pass of the trail, to which we could see snow-covered mountain ranges ahead of us and behind us. The sun was out in all its glory, creating a beautiful day. It was mostly downhill, literally and thankfully, from there, past some more ruins, perched as a military outpost looking over the vast expanse of the Sacred Valley, which we got to hike up to and explore. Then it was on to lunch after a hike that felt like we would never get there, especially having run out of water half an hour before arriving at camp. From our lunch spot, we could see the tip of Huayna Picchu, the mountain right next to Machu Picchu, giving us the added push we needed to start hiking again toward camp for that night, leading us through more ruins, some beautiful terraced hillsides that were quite treacherous to hike down through, and finally to the camp. Everyone was pretty tired at this point, legs aching, wanting a shower, but the anticipation about seeing Machu Picchu the next day was running high through our group. That night was our farewell dinner, and the crew we had was just top-notch the whole trail, but they outdid themselves with pasta and wine for dinner, plus bananas flambe and hot fudge for dessert complete with the show of fire that usually comes with it...just awesome, considering we were supposed to be "roughing it"!

The next day we set out pretty early, still dark in fact, fairly even grade except for a ridiculously steep staircase, hiking a few hours before we reached Intipunku, or the Sun Gate, the first vantage point where you are able to see Machu Picchu, and the point that begins the Royal Walkway down to the ruins. When we arrived, there was a thick cloud clover, but it seemed to be moving pretty quickly along, so we decided to just sit for a bit and see if it cleared. After about 5 minutes, the clouds started to thin and lift out of the valley, and then there it was, in all its glory, the lost city of the Incas, Machu Picchu. Perched on the mountain ridge, we could see it all from slightly above where we sat, although it was still a good distance away. Not only the ruins, but also the whole side of the mountain that had been cleared away to make way for the road built by the lost city's rediscoverer, American Hiram Bingham, in 1911. It took several different expeditions to clear away the thick jungle that had grown up over the site, and some believe that 1/4 of the city still remains undiscovered. The road winds in switchbacks down the mountain from the ruins, and was crucial in getting materials to and from the site when it was rediscovered, as well as now with the amount of tourism Machu Picchu attracts. No one really knows the story of this lost city of the Incas, although there are many theories as to its function. It was never touched by the Spanish conquerors, and there are signs that some believe the town was continuing to develop as a main trading station and dwelling places of the governor and the high priestess. As we set off from the Sun Gate, our guide let us go ahead of him, to let us rediscover Machu Picchu for ourselves. Down the royal flagstone walkway we went, encountering some llamas along the way, and then we entered the heart of Machu Picchu, still quiet in the early morning with wisps of clouds drifting right over top of us. One of the seven wonders of the world, it was hard to grasp being physically among the ruins that have been so photographed and published, so magical and mystical at the same time. After many photo-ops of individuals and as a group on a ledge just above the ruins, we continued down the steps to the main gate of the lost city, where the 8,400th step is located. We had already decided we wanted to take the official tour the next day after resting up, so for the rest of the day, we split into 2 groups, some of the group just wanting to hang out around the ruins, and the others desiring to climb Huayna Picchu, the mountain that overlooks Machu Picchu. Not really sure what I was thinking, but I decided to go with this latter group, even though looking back, I think I had already psyched myself out of it before we started...looking at this hulk of a mountain from the ruins, it appeared very, very steep at times, and very high...but I was pulled along with the rest of the group you could say, and after climbing and scrambling up the path that was mostly switchbacked stone staircases, we found ourselves at the top, on a ledge overlooking Machu Picchu from the north. At this point I could barely move I was so scared of tumbling over the side, which 2 tourists have done recently (information I found out much too late to turn around). To my chagrin, there was another rock outcropping where we scrambled up to for an even higher vantage point over the ruins, then realizing we would have to partially slide down over a very steep rock face that pretty much plummets over the edge of the mountain if you get going too fast, to get back to the trail head in order to get back down. Needless to say my heart was pumping pretty fast and I was producing copious amounts of sweat, mouth going dry, etc. I basically got myself in a zone of concentration so intense it was difficult to respond to anyone until we made it back down to a navigable trail some 30 minutes later. As we passed back through the gates and entered the ruins again, my legs started to feel a bit jello-y and I was ever so glad to sit down to a long lunch with a celebratory cold beverage at the restaurant just outside the main gate of Machu Picchu. Taking the bus down to our hotel in Aguas Calientes, the town at the foot of Machu Picchu, we immediately headed to the hot springs the area is famous for, which helped to take a little of the muscle ache away, then nice hot shower, followed by happy hour with a whole lot of Nutsy, and dinner at the hotel before turning in to sleep in an actual bed!

The next day we caught the bus back up to Machu Picchu, and our fellow passengers were part of a school field trip, about fifth or sixth grade, and who thought that Jeff, JK Tour President, was Papa Noel, or as we more commonly know him as Santa Claus. This is due to the fact that Jeff has a very long beard, and a very gregarious nature, so the kids were just overjoyed that it being so close to Christmas, they had him all to themselves for the 1/2-hour bus ride up to the ruins! Sitting behind Jeffie, I helped with some translations, as the kids were all telling him what they wanted for Christmas, and him asking if they had been good this year. The kids had various necklaces that they gave us as gifts, taking them from around their own necks and placing them over our heads...such a blessing to help demonstrate what I have encountered all year...how generous and overwhelmingly super these children and every child I have worked with this year have been. Charles and I managed to get together enough candy we had accumulated on the trail (there were about 5 pieces in the snack bags we got every day) to give each kid a piece, and then when we got off the bus, they all wanted their photo op with Papa Noel and our group. And then throughout the day, when they would spot us among the ruins, all you could hear were shouts of "Papa Noel! Papa Noel!" ringing off the stone walls! It was fantastic!

We were able to see the Sun Temple, which was so built that on the winter solstice, and only on that one day, as the sun rises it shines through the Sun Gate on the ridge we came over the day before, and directly into the Serpent Window built into the wall of the Sun Temple! This might not seem so extraordinary, but given the fact that the Sun Gate is only 10 feet in diameter and the window of the Sun Temple is only a foot square, that's pretty remarkable to me! Other innovations we passed included the first known compass made out of stone, that also doubled as a sundial, and other pieces of stone that when the sun hit them at certain points throughout the year, it would cast a shadow in different shapes, like the head of a llama, or a condor. The workmanship of every edifice was perfect, each stone being cut to fit exactly. There was a specific section for the farmers, near the terraces, and then the dwellings of the governor and the high priestess, along with the various temples, one for the sun, one for the condor, and one for the moon, and one with three windows to symbolize the 3 realms: heaven, earth, and the underworld. There was the industrial sector, where textiles were made, and the marketplace, where it was believed that vendors from surrounding towns would come to barter and trade their goods. Even a "greenhouse," which was a open grassy area that was surrounded by trees so that it was blocked from the wind and received enough sun to allow growth of whatever was planted. Before leaving, Charles and I hiked back up to the highest point of the ruins to look out over Machu Picchu in its entirety, in part for one last look and also to convince myself that I was really here and seeing it. We were accompanied by some llamas, who were just grazing on the terraces, and even though the city has been deserted for quite some time, it was hard not to feel the presence of those that had come before and how Machu Picchu had been quite the hub of activity, perched on the top of this mountain that was never found by the Spaniards and lost until Bingham stumbled upon it, originally thinking it was the ruins of some other lost Incan stronghold. Absolutely incredible to walk in and around this city that was lost for so long.

Lunch was a several hour affair at a local restaurant in Aguas Calientes, very long, but very good. And then it was off to catch the train back to Cusco. The track followed the Urubamba River for most of the way, so we cruised right through the valley, with the mountains soaring up on either side of us. The train cars were perfect for the journey, since they had windows in the roof in addition to the sides, for perfect viewing of those mountain tops we were passing! There were stewards on the train, just like you would find on an airplane, but to our surprise, they also doubled as models with the center aisle being the catwalk, for a fashion show of Angoran clothing! Most of our group was pretty speechless, but there was a rather large group of older Italian tourists in our railcar, who got the biggest kick out of this extravaganza, whipping out their video cameras and buying who knows how many Euros worth of sweaters, wraps, and scarves! Quite the experience I must say.

We arrived into Cusco after dark, which had become my favorite time of day in the city, when the main square comes alive and the lights come on all the way up the hillsides...it's just so beautiful at night! We made our way to the hotel, then immediately headed back out for some last minute shopping. I was hoping for one last taste of cuy at dinner for the others to try, but it was a buffet restaurant and alas, no cuy was to be found, to everyone's dismay. To bed early as our flight to Lima the next morning was quite early. We were joined by Owen Wilson and Woody Harrelson in first class on our plane, who our guide in Lima informed us were doing some work with a children's center there. Going through the arrivals gate at Lima International Airport, there were several video crews there, shouting at everyone coming through asking if the two celebrities were still inside...quite the scene. We were met by our guide and taken to the hotel, got settled in, then went on a guided tour of Peru's capital city. We split up afterwards, some opting to sleep, others opting to go to the casino down the street, and others, including me, heading out to explore the Indian markets and do some more shopping. I had just a few more souvenirs to get, and after fueling up with a hearty lunch from Bembo's...the Peruvian equivalent of Wendy's or McDonald's, we were off and running. The main artesan section of Lima takes up several city blocks, so there are many choices as to where to shop. We picked one market and wandered down and around the many stalls and shops located inside...again, more textiles, woodcrafts, leather goods, etc. Such beautiful bright colors and patterns on everything! Walking back we took in all the Christmas decorations lining the streets and in the store windows...nice reminder that I would soon be home for good, for Christmas. We left for the airport after dinner that night, as our flight was just after midnight, saying goodbye to our group as everyone had different flights out. Sitting in Lima airport with my fiancee, we started to review the year again, and speculate about the year ahead, mostly counting how blessed we both are, and how exciting the year to come would be for us. Quite the roller coaster of emotions in those couple of hours, as I thought about how my year of travelling was ending, but how we had made it through the year and were now coming home together. This year has been full of so many amazing people, places, experiences and opportunities, and I think it will still be sinking in long after I get home. How truly blessed I am...

We made it to Miami without incident and then on to Philadelphia, where I can't even begin to describe how great it was to see my mom waiting for us just outside of security, to run and give her a hug, knowing that it was the last time I would be away from home for so long. If someone asked me to pinpoint a specific moment that I truly felt like I was home, it was the hugs I got from my mom and Charles at the airport. Christmas with family and New Year's with friends were awesome! And searching for and acquiring a new job that will allow me some extra time during the week for volunteering closer to home, have all kept me busy upon returning. I think I will be trying to process all my experiences from this past year for quite some time, so that will be an ongoing project. I have had some truly amazing support this past year, and I have so many people to thank for that. I really don't know how to say thank you enough, only that I hope my ability to travel and give back some of what I have been blessed with has inspired someone else to do the same. As Gandhi said, "Be the change you wish to see in the world," and even though we aren't all able to take a year and travel the world, sometimes it's just changing the attitude that this is one world that's not so big anymore, and we're all travelling the road together, helping and contributing whatever way we can. Yes, I was only one person, and that was overwhelming at times, but I did my best and that was enough. Everyone always has something to share, even if it is a mother of 5 surviving every day in the slums of Africa making sure her kids get to school every day, or the child with cerebral palsy in India that brightened any day with his smile, or the boy with a traumatic brain injury in Peru that collected bottles every week to raise enough money to help support his family. I have learned so many times over how to be happy with what I have, usually realizing I am blessed with so much already. So that has been my 2007...this time last year I was getting ready to embark on what I figured would be an amazing experience...little did I know I would learn so much about myself, my faith, and about this world we live in...I hope I left it a little better than I found it.

Adiòs Pomacanchi...

So 3 weeks later for a total of a month, I am saying goodbye to Pomacanchi tomorrow morning at 6:30 when my bus rolls out headed toward Cusco. JK Tours arrives the next day, on Friday the 30th, and we begin our whirlwind tour of Cusco and it`s surrounds, but most importantly, the Inca Trail and MACHU PICCHU!!! So here is some of the highlights of my past 3 weeks...

After being in Pomacanchi for a week, my first weekend back in Cusco was amazing...got to see a whole lot more of the city, which I continue to just find so enrapturing and magical! Sunday we hiked up what seemed like an endless series of stairs and up even higher into the hills surrounding the city (lots of huffing and puffing and rest breaks) to the Temple of the Moon, a massive hill of rocks that the Incas built back before the 1500`s, and that you can enter through only one entrance as it is an active archeological site. We didn`t get very far in as this entrance only led into a very small cave-like space and did not allow further access inside the temple. We could however climb up to the top of the temple...and the view was incredible...not only could we see all of Cusco, as the temple sits up on top of the hills surrounding the city, but also one of the nevadas, or snow-capped mountains not far from Cusco. Close to the Temple of the Moon, there is a spot that rents horses by the hour, so we mounted and were led up to some caves that not much history is known about them, but legend has it that many people have gotten lost in them and never returned. We wandered in and around this gigantic maze of rock caves after dismounting, every so often coming to a hole hewn in the rock with a perfect view of the city, or that the sun was shining squarely through...another testament to the Incas` talents at perception in their architecture. From this vantage point we could also see Sacsayhuaman, the training grounds for the young Incan warriors, which pronounced correctly, sounds very much like "sexy woman," and hence, gets a lot of giggles anytime it`s mentioned.

Monday we caught the bus mid-afternoon for the 3 hour journey back to Pomacanchi, but not before a trip to the Cusco market for our groceries for the next 2 weeks, or before one last, long shower! The Cusco market was absolutely fabulous...rows and rows of vendors in a big open-air warehouse. One section the size of a small city block for vegetables, another for fruits, including fresh juices made on request, and yet another for the butchers...I don`t think I`ve ever seen so many parts of one animal for sale so closely to each other before, including the heads. Even a vendor where you could request what type of meat and spices you wanted for your sausages, and then watch them stuff the casings...talk about fresh. This is only after you`ve gotten over any squeamishness that results from the hordes of flies swarming around, and anyone and everyone passing by picking things up to inspect or examine more closely what they might possibly buy, since everything is out in the open on the counters...there is no refridgeration. But if you can`t find what you`re looking for at this market, then it doesn`t exist! From household supplies, to baked goods, to clothing and textiles, it`s all there.

We arrived back in Pomacanchi early in the evening on Monday, greeted by some of the kids who were in the main square waiting for the bus to pull in. They were as glad to see us as we were to see them and get off that bus! The following week we were a little higher in capacity as 2 of the volunteers had family visiting, which is nice for the different dynamic it creates. Still quite cold these past 3 weeks, and it has also started raining. It is supposedly rainy season, but for the first week and a half I was here, we hadn´t gotten a drop, and they needed it so badly, especially since farming is the main income for so many families. The Monday we got back, the kids wanted to play a quick game of fùtbol before they left for home, so we were out on the court under the few streetlights there are, and all of a sudden we noticed a group of children out on the street with a few candles...singing something in Quechua. I was told the next morning after a heavy downpour that night that the kids were praying for rain. And it hasn`t stopped since!! God is good! And with the rain also comes hail and even snow up on the mountain tops, which don`t seem that much higher up than the actual village itself...no wonder it`s so cold! Makes me very thankful for the 5 wool blankets I have on my bed without any central heating system in existence in the village.

Other happenings in the village have included a big birthday party, as Pomacanchi turned 51! There was a big concert in the outdoor amphitheater, so a few volunteers and I went with one of the mothers and watched a few of the groups perform, opting to leave after we could no longer feel our bums anymore seated on the concrete steps of the amphitheater! It was a grande celebration and I think a few gringas only helped to add to the party, despite all the stares we got! We had our own celebration at the center, rewarding those kids who had the best attendance, and the hygiene supplies I had brought (thanks to all my fellow Kennedy employees for their help in collecting these donations!) we used as prizes...big hit!

The gustatory adventures have continued...tripe soup, and drumroll please...my first taste of guinea pig!! Called cuy here (pronounced kwee), it is served roasted and complete with skin, some fur, head, teeth, ears, even its last meal in the oral cavity! And they eat every bit of it...even the internal organs. Pretty tasty as they do a special barbecue-type rub...still working up to eating the skin which usually still has some hair on it, and the organs...not quite that adventurous yet. The occasions I was able to try this unique culinary delicacy was the weekend I stayed in Pomacanchi. That Saturday was the first communion and confirmation of one of our girls at the center. And what an event it was as about 50 kids were receiving that day! There were about 35 girls and 15 boys, and the girls were especially an amazing sight, as some of them were decked out in bridal fashion...veil and all! The bishop and archbishops were even present to conduct the service, who entered the village in a huge procession...you would have thought it was the pope the way people were lining the street and square just to have them lay a hand on them or their child...don`t think they venture out too far or often to this neck of the mountains, so they wait until they have a huge group and do one mass service. One of the archbishops was from Spain (could tell by his accent...booyah me!) and even translated parts of the service into Quechua...most impressive I thought. There wasn`t an empty seat in the house as I think the whole village turned out for it! One of the other volunteers who has been here for 3 months was selected as the godmother of the girl, so we went in support of both of them. That morning we helped get her 2 younger sisters ready for the big day to help out her mom...what fun it was boiling huge kettles of water to give them both baths, in huge laundry tubs out in the sun in the courtyard, them giggling and splashing...they were definitely the cleaner ones afterwards! The big party after the ceremony was worth the 2-hour long service in the long auditorium of the church on uncomfortable wooden pews. We bought the confirmand a cake and it was a lovely afternoon celebrating this big milestone in her life...huge rite of passage both religiously and as a female of the community. The other cuy occasion was the next day, as we had a big bash for all the children of the center, but especially to celebrate those that had a birthday in the past 6 months. It was a bash complete with dancing, lots of sweets, 3 cakes, and the highlight...a piñata!! The kids were ordered by age and starting with the youngest, each got a whack at it! Lots of laughs and what pandemonium when it finally broke open, showering little plastic toys and confetti on the kids massed underneath! One thing that I will always remember about the children here in Perù is how they treasure each little special treat or sweet they receive. Picture 30 kids seated at a picnic table laden with plates and plates of candy and cookies, each waiting their turn until the plates are passed to them, or waiting patiently while one child hands everything out. Then putting everything they get, even cake! into a goodie bag to save for later. Incredible when you think those plates of candy and cake would be gone in seconds at a birthday party in the States. Again, I`ve learned so much more from those I have worked with this past year than I could have ever hoped to teach them.

Things at the center have been going very well...I have been trying to learn some Quechua, which is I think must be the hardest language on the planet to learn as it is completely verbal...not much written. The children of the center are bilingual, speaking Quechua and Spanish. Usually they only speak in Quechua when they don`t want the volunteers to understand what they`re saying! So I`m having some of them teach me the language of the Incas, and did I say it was difficult already? Even if the kids write it down for me, the pronunciation is totally different than how it looks on the paper, and there is also a lot of clicking and guttaral sounds as well. The English lessons with the kids are going very well...I am in charge of the tigres y mariposas, or tigers and butterflies, which is the oldest group of 3 that we have for English lessons. The other groups are the loritos, or parrots, and the patitos, the youngest group, which are the little ducks. The third week I gave my tigers and butterflies a pop quiz, and it was so funny to see them react the way I did whenever I got a pop quiz in school...the looks of shock and horror were absolutely priceless!! The plaintive cries of "Tia!!" were unanimous! The kids refer to each of the volunteers as a "tia" or aunt, which is really quite endearing and creates the feeling of one big extended family. The volunteers have also come up with a sex education series for the older kids, so we`ve been gradually implementing that once a week. It`s a shame as most of the children, especially the girls, have started bleeding and have no clue what in the world is wrong with them as they haven`t been told. And the boys have so many questions about the animals they take care of and what they have seen when it comes to reproduction. Amazing the differences between sexes in their curiosities and how those differences seem universal.

I have also gotten some opportunities to explore around Pomacanchi and the expanse of the surrounding mountains seems endless. One day last week some other volunteers and I trekked up to the statue of Christ that overlooks the city (most towns in this area have one, I think both for protection and as an ever-present reminder). It was only a few hundred feet higher than the town itself, but wow could you see forever, even to the lake! Absolutely gorgeous, and on our way back down, I just happened to look back at the statue and there in the sky was a full sundog...the rainbow spectrum that goes all the way around the sun when the light hits the clouds just right! It was absolutely beautiful and such a great moment!

The other outing involved 2 other volunteers and one of the older boys from the center. We started out one morning at 8 am to catch a tractor to where we were going, which in Peruvian time, usually means 8:30 or 9, if you`re lucky. We were not alone as we waited for our ride at the edge of the village, and when the large farm vehicle pulling an even bigger hay wagon pulled up, we, along with the 20 or so other villagers, ran as fast as we could to be one of the lucky ones to get a ride and not have to walk. This is because the journey is about an hour and a half hike, uphill all the way. Now, I know this doesn`t sound like me, I`m usually always up for an adventure where you exert yourself. However, we`re talking about a hike above 4000 meters!! So needless to say, I enjoyed the ride after I caught my breath after only climbing up onto the wagon! The views were spectacular, as we wound through the surrounding mountains. Our destination that day was to see the vicuñas. This is an animal that is in the camelid family, right in there with the llamas and alpacas. However, the vicuña has recently come under the spotlight and is now protected, due to it`s endangerment from hunters and poachers. Apparently, one kilo of gold and white colored hide (about 4 vicuñas) is worth 500 USD here, which is enough to salary half the village for the whole year. They are beautiful animals, and the municipality of Pomacanchi, along with other municipalities throughout Peru and Ecuador, where vicuñas are native, have developed large sanctuaries for them. The one outside of Pomacanchi that we were headed to is about 12000 hectares (not sure of the equivalency in acres) and the fenced in area seemed to spread over the hills for miles. The importance of the reservation is because unlike other endangered animals, vicuñas cannot be raised in capitivity...they don`t survive. There are 3 men that are paid to be stationed along the fence at all times, working in shifts, and the men and women we rode in the tractor with have been going every day for the past several months to build a house for those men instead of the hay shacks they currently reside in while on duty. Vicuñas are very flighty animals, comparative to deer in my opinion, and are quite fast, so the pictures we did get of them were few and from very far away. One of the volunteers had a pair of binoculars, so we were able to see them up close, that is when we were able to get the binoculars off from around the neck of one of the older boys we had brought...he thought they were the best thing ever and was so great at spotting the animals for us to look at! We were able to hike to the lake in the center of the protected area, and one of the guardsmen accompanied us and answered all of our questions. There are currently 98 vicuñas on this reservation, and the females are due to give birth in the months of February to March, after carrying the babies for 11 months!! Beautiful creatures and the fact that we were able to see them in their natural habitat was just amazing!

Community life has continued to teach me so many things, and the cold water I have pretty much gotten used to. Laundry has been quite the challenge, as by the time I finish washing everything and go to hang it up, my fingers can`t quite work the clothespins that well, given the immersion in what feels like ice water and then being exposed to the cold air! Washing my hair over a basin has become routine, very speedy I might add as my head feels so numb it burns by the time I finish. I will also say that I took a bucket bath the weekend that we all stayed for the confirmation, and I think that was all the cold showers I took in Mancora (no hot water there either) every day for 3 months combined into one very cold naked experience...I think I have an idea what the polar plunge in Antarctica would have been like if I had done it. The sun and altitude have also continued to ravage my scalp, lips and nose, even with sunscreen! I think I might be peeling until January at this rate. I kinda feel like a snake shedding it`s skin...every day!

As for living at the center, I have finally gotten accustomed to ducking in doorways, as my stature was not what most buildings here were configured for...I think I had a permanent egg on the top of my head for the first week and a half here! I have had my turn at getting up early to prepare the breakfast for the kids that stay at the center each night, and also cleaning the bathroom. We also take turns making dinner and breakfast. On my night to help with dinner, and this was during the weekend we all stayed in Pomacanchi for the first communion and needing a special treat after a long week, I introduced S`mores to my fellow volunteers from Spain and one from Norway! I had gotten all the ingredients (as best as possible) at the Cusco market the weekend before, collected some sticks, and we roasted marshmallows over a candle flame in the kitchen that night as it was pouring outside!! They loved them and told me they feel ready to go camping American-style! Since the volunteers have most of their down time in the mornings when the kids are at school, I have taken on my own "little project." She is 7 years old and the daughter of the cook at the center. She was born with some sort of hypoxic brain injury, whether it was in-utero or during birth, or as a result of the mother`s alcoholism while she was pregnant with her, no one is really sure. She presents with symptoms most closely related to cerebral palsy. She is just the best little girl! She has a smile as big as the night sky here and that brightens up the whole room. She notices everything and especially loves it when anything falls or someone trips...she has the best belly laugh! She is so incredibly smart too, follows all commands and is able to nod or shake her head in response. So I have started doing exercises and working on developmental milestones with her every morning, and she is just making amazing progress in the four weeks I have been working with her...considering she was kept at home the first 6 years of her life. She has been able to roll over onto her back from her stomach and sit independently for a whole minute since we`ve started! After talking with her mom, the main goal is to get her to feed herself, and also to be able to let someone know when she has to go to the bathroom. This has involved a lot of education with the mom to allow her to try and feed herself and not help, no matter the mess or how long it takes, because she has to learn. And also the importance of a regular schedule so she can learn, not only for toileting, but for other things as well. I also was able to find a no-spill sippy cup in Cusco last weekend and have been trialing that with her...she needs a lot more practice as it requires a whole lot more oral coordination than the bottle she is so used to. The concept of allowing her to do it herself is very difficult as the culture is to care for the family member and do for them what they are not able to, otherwise it is seen as neglect. The kids of the center have also been very good at helping with the exercises by playing with her, encouraging her to roll and sit up to reach for things...it`s a fantastic environment for her. I have showed all the exercises to the director of the project, who will continue them with her and who has also asked our volunteer coordinator to recruit specifically for specialists that could help even more. Another big help has been the nuns of the local Catholic Church who worked for 2 years to get her a wheelchair, and it supports her just where she needs it. I have so enjoyed working with her for the past month, and her progress has just been incredible.

Projects with the kids on my last week have been using the rest of the craft materials and supplies that were donated to me throughout the year (thank you, thank you, thank you!!) One particularly rainy day last week I pulled out some tote bags, cut big hearts out of some red fabric I found, and had the girls who wanted to sew them on a bag they got to keep and decorate it with beads and buttons that I had brought as well. They absolutely loved it and the sewing circle that quickly formed...all the girls bent over their projects, each one chosing to decorate it in a unique way, was so great to see! For the younger ones, I ushered them into another room and their eyes were as wide as saucers when they saw all the construction paper, stickers, stencils, and various markers and crayons piled on the table!! They had a blast making greeting cards and some of them had just as many stickers on themselves as were on their projects!

As I prepared to leave Pomacanchi today, packing up and buying my bus ticket, saying goodbyes and leaving some pictures behind for the kids of the memories I have from the past month, I couldn`t help but add this project to the list of all those from this past year...how blessed I am to be a part of their journeys and to experience all that I have just being a part of their lives for the time I can. This project is growing and moving forward just like the others, and the new center they are working on is only one sign of that. They hope to move in by January, and be able to provide a warm, safe environment for even more children come 2008.

So that has been my past month...looking forward to a sleepless night tonight and and even longer day tomorrow in Cusco waiting for the arrival of JK Tours on Friday!! Guess I`ll just have to bide my time shopping the day away... :) Only one more blog entry to come...and that one will be after I get home...but I`ll be sure to divulge all details, pictures and stories of JK Tours: Cusco & Machu Picchu 2007!!

Hola Cusco!

So I was in the U.S. for about a week...I endured the 17-hour bus ride from Màncora to Lima, spent half a day in Lima, then my flight from Lima to Atlanta was a little after midnight on Friday the 26th. Charles and I had been gearing up for a huge reunion in Atlanta airport, as we were headed to Wichita together for his niece`s wedding that weekend. Unfortunately, there was some reason why 11 weeks apart wasn`t enough time, because he was so delayed leaving Philadelphia that he missed our connecting flight in Atlanta. Imagine...I made it on time and without a problem coming all the way from Perù, but a domestic flight that was only 2 hours long got delayed...gotta love Philadelphia International Airport. Since my bags were already checked through by the time I got his messages, I left on our originally scheduled flight. The salt in the wound was that so many people missed that connecting flight, a lot of standbys made it onto the flight, and I was seated next to a woman (who was occupying what would have been Charles` seat) who commented to me as I was about to sit down, "I don`t know why they separated my husband and I on this flight." Trying to keep it together at this point, I offered up my seat to her husband, took his seat at the very front of the plane, and buckled in. The pilot soon came on the com to notify us that we were a little underweight with luggage for this flight, and he was asking if someone seated at the front of the plane would move to the center to distribute the load more evenly for takeoff. Now, I must add here that I was sharing the front row of seats with 3 rather hulking gentlemen, but they didn`t seem to be budging, so I got up to change seats and the whole plane started cheering and the new gentleman I sat next to commented humorously that he was sure my 120 pounds or so was going to do a whole lot to redistribute the weight on the plane--God bless him. I will also add here that I had been crying since I sat down, due to the fact that Charles wasn`t on this flight, so my fellow passengers must have thought I was really attached to that front seat! I then had the privilege of spending 7 hours in Wichita airport waiting for Charles to arrive. Needless to say, we were very glad to see each other, the wedding was absolutely beautiful and I got to meet the rest of his family, and we arrived back home without a problem.

I spent the rest of that week catching up with family and friends, and celebrated my 28th birthday, some of the highlights being a Thanksgiving dinner with the family, presenting my travels to some students that were very eager to learn more about volunteering, a Halloween dinner with my girls, as well as a major pampering session, complete with manicure, pedicure, and hairdo, new outfit, and dinner out on my actual birthday (see picture). I also spent the week trying to wrap up my time in Màncora, and re-packing everything for the next and last leg of my year of travel.

I arrived in Cusco Sunday the 4th of November, and flying in was absolutely incredible. I had to ask myself if I was still in Perù, having only seen the coast and being on the beach for 3 months...it was breathtaking to cruise right past snow-capped Andean peaks, and look down at all the other mountains surrounding Cusco...I was actually a little apprehensive landing, as it didn`t appear that there was going to be a flat enough space to even land a tiny plane! I was met at the airport by my homestay here in Cusco, who brought me back to the hostel where I would be spending the next 2 days. Cusco actually means "navel" in Quechua, the language of the Incas (which originally meant king, but has now come to refer to all people of that descent), since it sits in the crevice of surrounding mountainous peaks, and nighttimes are the most spectacular as the house lights of the dwellings built up the hillsides come on and the view is just incredible as you turn 360 degrees to take it all in! The architecture is pretty spectacular as well...some of the original Incan buildings and walls still stand, sometimes side by side with the conquering Spanish-syle structures. My first sunset was magnificent, the sky and clouds over the city turned the most gorgeous pinks and oranges. I was surprised how warm it was during the day, but boy did it get chilly after the sun went down! I think I had about 5 blankets on my bed when I arrived which I thought was a bit much, but as I slipped under them that night and it seemed like I had 5 lead aprons on (the kind you have to wear whenever you get an xray), I was very thankful! I would much rather be warm than suffocate I decided. I wasn`t reminded of Cusco`s altitude of 3200 meters until I went up 3 short flights of stairs at the hostel, and was panting by the time I got to the top. My bottles of toiletries also exploded too when I opened them up...they were greatly relieved to be opened, having expanded so much in the thinner air. As soon as I arrived from the airport, the woman at the hostel had a cup of tea ready for me, and when I asked her what kind it was after taking a few sips and deciding it wasn`t like anything I had had before, I could have sworn she said it was some form of coco, or coconut. Well that night at dinner, when I got to choose my own teabag, I saw the label with it`s 3-leafed plant and realized it was "coca" that she had said. For those of you not familiar with altitude, the coca leaf is often used to remedy the symptoms that come with being high up in the Andes, as well as the original source for producing cocaine. I have been assured that drinking the tea is non-habit forming though. The next 2 days were spent relaxing in Cusco, and I was able to walk around this amazing city that is steeped in history. It`s all centered around one main plaza, and just off the plaza is a maze of winding, steep, cobblestoned streets that just beg you to explore them. There are plenty of artesan caches, vending their wares from alpaca hide blankets to bright, multi-colored woven bags, hats, gloves, etc. that are usually depicted in any tourist`s picture of Peruvians. My last evening in Cusco before heading to my project, I was meandering around the main square and got to see a parade being put on by a local school. Every grade was dressed in costume depicting different periods in Cusco`s history. From brightly colored dresses that swung out as the girls wearing them spun around, to the boys in full gaucho costume. It was beautiful, and the lights were just starting to come on around the city and on its hillsides as the sun was setting...it was truly magical!

I was delayed by a day in getting to my project, as the bus that would have taken me most of the way was full on Monday, so instead, I was picked up on Tuesday by the coordinator of the project and we nabbed the next bus. After 2 hours, and driving through the most breathtaking, sweeping panoramas of river, mountains, and remote villages, we disembarked from the bus to pile into a taxi (8 people plus baggage in a 5-person vehicle), and drove the remaining 30 minutes to the pueblo of Pomacanchi, where my last project for the year is located. Pomacanchi is basically the end of the line, being one of many villages surrounding a very large lake which the town is named after. The village of Pomacanchi is a little bit higher than Cusco, sitting at 3600 meters. There is one main square and then the town spreads out in houses in a half-mile radius around the main square. The main municipal building houses the only internet cafe, and one common telephone that if you receive a phone call, your name is broadcast over the PA system until you present yourself to answer it. So no matter if you`re occupied with shampoo in your hair, or sitting on the toilet, you better get there quick as you only have 5 minutes once they announce your name! There are a few tiendas, or small general stores, for things such as bread and water, some produce items as well.

The program I have been placed at is named Hatun Sonqo, which means big heart in Quechua. The center is an afterschool program for about 50 children in total, although we don`t have more than 30-40 any given day. There are also between 7-11 children that stay at the center because it is a more stable environment for them than home would be, as alcoholism is a very large social issue here. All of the children come from homes where the parent(s) work during the day, and instead of coming back from school to an empty house, they come to the center for lunch, English lessons, crafts, games, and as many hugs as they will let us give them. The kiddos start wandering in around 1 pm, and the last one is gone by 8 pm. They range in age from 4 years old to teenagers, and are a very energetic bunch. When they arrive each afternoon, they must sign in, let us know if they have homework and if they need help, show us their notebooks, then they can have lunch. If they don`t have homework, we have other activities for them, or just play. English classes are later in the afternoon, separated into 3 groups by ages, and then we do a craft activity with them, followed by finishing homework, and then they get a light dinner before they go home.

I am currently one of 8 volunteers at the center, only 2 of us are with i-to-i, the remaining 6 are with an organization based in Spain, so it works out wonderfully that there are so many volunteers already fluent in Spanish! I´m also finding it a challenge to understand Spanish all over again it seems, as the accent from Spain is completely different than Perù to my ears!

My accommodation is at the center itself, as there are 3 rooms for the volunteers to share. The center rents half of a house from the woman that owns the house and that occupies the other half of the house, with a common courtyard. There is one bathroom with a Western-style toilet, and running water in the courtyard that is used for all washing. There is no shower, but I have decided that I would not want to remove any clothing to do so anyway, as it can get pretty cold when the sun goes in. I try to soak up as much of the sun as possible, preferring to roast and remember it when I`m shivering in the stiff wind at night. So on weekends, the volunteers head into Cusco, not only to shower and do some proper grocery shopping, but also return to civilization. The volunteers have a set rotation for chores around the center (i.e. cleaning the loo, preparing breakfast for those children that stay at the center, making dinner, dishes, etc.). This project has taken the most getting used to, and I think I`m still settling in, as it is solely run by the volunteers, whereas before I stayed with host families or in a volunteer house separate from the project. In addition, the projects I was working with before had locals running them, that when I left, they would continue the project regardless if there was another volunteer present. I can`t imagine coming into this project without older volunteers present to orient the newbies and explain the goings-on of the center. There is a brother and sister that are in charge of the project, and visit the center frequently, monitoring the work that is being done. There is also a woman that cooks lunch for the volunteers and the children, and dinner for the children. But other than that, the volunteers are the heart and soul of this program. And speaking of the cook, I have decided that my first week has been the ultimate gustatory adventure, as the lunches have included such things as chicken feet soup, cow feet stew (which is really just cartilage, no meat), and a sort of stir-fry of brains (not sure what the animal was, but then again, does it really matter?) The last one I didn`t realize what it was until the next day, so I did end up imbibing some of it, and wondering what it could be...I think I remember identifying it (incorrectly) as a variety of seafood, given it`s squishy texture and salty taste. I chalk it up to a possible future appearance on Fear Factor, the TV show where they make the contestants scarf down the most disgusting things imaginable.

Being in this remote of a location does have its advantages, as I`m reminded each night when I look up at the sky and see what seems like a million more stars than what I can usually see at home...definitely no light pollution out here! I have done some conditioning this week too, once I allowed myself to acclimatize...my first game of fùtbol with the older boys was great fun, and now they want to play every day, but I have made it clear that they can play only after they finish their homework. I also trekked with 2 other volunteers to Pomacanchi Lake, mentioned previously. The views were spectacular as we got to climb up a little higher over the endless fields surrounded by soaring mountain peaks...I have to keep reminding myself that I`m actually in the Andes Mountain Range...it`s unfathomable at times! See attached picture of the magnificent expanse of the lake...I didn`t go in, but I`m sure the water is freezing! So definitely more huffing and puffing than normal, but when you`re at 3500+ meters high in the atmosphere, what else is there to expect really?

So my first week has come to an end and I am now finishing up this entry while seated in an internet cafe in Cusco, after a nice, long, hot shower. The remaining volunteers and I arrived this morning to join the volunteers that arrived yesterday. It`s a beautiful sunny day, chill in the air though, and I can`t wait to do more exploring! And for those of you counting down...3 weeks til Machu Picchu!!

Adíos Máncora...

I have been putting off writing this entry as I knew it would be about saying goodbye to the place and the people that have been my home and family for the past 3 months...so I'm going to try not to cry as I type this, but definitely not promising anything...

My last 2 weeks have been absolutely wonderful...events at the center and around town I have decided have been perfectly coordinated with my leaving. For example, Mancora is gearing up to host the international women's surfing competition at the end of October, and I have concluded that it's probably a good thing I won't be around for it to steal the title away from the current champion :)

As for the center, I was able to help celebrate a rather important birthday during my last full week there. I have never seen a party so big as the center turned 5 years old, complete with a parade! The big day arrived and started out with a march through town...all of the kids wearing their uniforms or t-shirts with the center logo on it, holding signs with messages of 'ability' and not disability, waving balloons, carrying banners...we even had a band from one of the local schools! It was great to see the community respond to our procession, as the police blocked off streets, residents would come out of their stores or homes and wave as we passed by. And even though there is a great deal of street repairs going on, it was interesting to see how inaccessible the community is for these children that don't get around as easily, as the uneven sidewalks, curbs, and steps provided an extra challenge for some of those in wheelchairs and their families. It was quite warm that morning, so the shady spot we found after the parade was over was most welcomed! Then it was back to the center for the big fiesta! The kids had been practicing for the past couple of days, so I had a feeling this was going to be a pretty grand occasion. The little ones started off the party with a couple of songs, complete with costumes! Then the kids presented the woman that founded the center with a gift that I helped them make, and she was so pleased with the bag that had each child's name on individual fabric hearts that were sewn on both sides of the bag. The big guys were next, singing one song that they had been practicing for the past week, and then it was time for the dancing. Of the older kids, 6 of them are very good dancers, and had been working hard on learning the marinera, which is a traditional Peruano dance that most closely resembles the waltz, but with a Spanish flair. The girls were absolutely beautiful in their ruffled skirts as they waved their handkerchiefs and the boys stepped around them in sweeping motions as they waltzed across the dance floor! I was so proud of them...they had worked so hard and the smiles on their faces were absolutely glowing! More dancing followed, as there was a DJ, and we even had the kids in wheelchairs out boogieing on the dance floor! No party would be complete without a cake, and boy did that disappear quickly! I even ended up with the remnants of the cake all over me as the kids wrestled for who got the last lick of the icing and accidentally bumped into me with the platter! It was a great day and definitely a celebration equal to all that the center stands for and is working to accomplish in the coming years. Speaking of the future, I also got to help out with clearing ground and prepping the space that will hold the new center they have been planning and fundraising for. The kids loved the work gloves they got to put on, and as we cleared brush and trash, placed and painted marker posts, you could sense everyone´s excitement at the possibility of this brand new future, a grand expansion of what the current center is and does.

I also had my first Peruano cooking experience...that weekend I headed over to the woman that runs the center's house to cook with her and her 2 daughters. I was originally going to make sloppy joes with them, which is my special favorite back home. However, I found it impossible to acquire 2 of the main ingredients, and was not keen on going all over town asking where I might buy them, as some of you will remember the brown sugar incident of India. Anyway, we opted instead for coconut fried shrimp, and when I say the ingredients couldn't have been fresher, I am in no way exaggerating. Earlier in the morning we had gone 'grocery shopping,' first to the home of a local fisherman for the 'langostinos' or shrimp, and second to the local market where we wandered up and down the stalls of the most beautiful fruits and vegetables, collecting the rest of our ingredients. See attached picture of us grating pieces of a fresh coconut, after tapping into it and draining the milk, followed by smashing it open Gilligan´s Island-style. Now, in my defense, I will say that this was the first time I had cooked in a Peruvian kitchen, and when those delicate shrimp coated in the feathered coconut dropped into the scalding hot oil, I was not prepared when they burned almost instantaneously! The smell of scorched coconut wafted in the air as the family most graciously ate my culinary disaster and complimented me on how really good it was, really. Thankfully, an aunt was also present that day that is a pastry goddess, and saved the day with her specialty, arroz con leche, or rice pudding.

The new volunteer also arrived my last full week, who I would be passing everything to when I left, so orienting her was priority during my last 2 weeks. Now every person that has to orient a newbie hopes and prays that everything goes smoothly, but there always seems to be minor glitches in how things usually get done...Murphy's law right? So on her first day of home visits, as we're in the collectivo (shared taxi) on our way, I had just finished telling her that I had never had a problem with the customs checkpoint between Mancora and Cancas, which is there due to the close proximity of the border with Ecuador. I normally just sail right on through, but as we approached I noticed about 20 more officials than usual milling around, and it wasn't so much the increased number that made me take notice, it was the semiautomatic weapons they were all carrying down at their sides that made me sit up a little straighter in my cramped seat on the combi. Our driver slowed to a stop and they made a cursory search of the vehicle, instructing everyone to step out of the car. It wasn't until they asked for identification that I froze in my apathetic stance right next to the vehicle, as I realized I didn't even have a copy of my passport with me...absolutely nothing except my word that I was who I claimed to be. The other volunteer thankfully had a copy of her passport on her. Now, I knew that my Spanish got a little rough when I was tired or sick, but I soon added nervous to this list. As I fumbled over words that I usually spoke without a problem, trying to explain that this was just a short journey that I didn't think I needed my passport for, and that I always have my passport with me for big trips, that I was simply a tourist on a day trip (since if they found out I was volunteering I would have had a whole lot more explaining to do and work permits to show, etc.). This did not please the customs agent as he then told me that it was illegal to be travelling without a passport. The combi driver, bless him, was trying to help me out, interjecting that my passport was safe in my hostel, cueing me to say yes and another excuse as to why I didn't have it with me, since it's more likely to be stolen when one is out and about. There were a few sentences I truly didn't understand, so if he was guaging to see if I would offer up some money, I'm not entirely certain, but I really don't think that was the case. After what seemed like an hour of questioning, but was probably only more like 5 minutes, he warned me to always carry my passport with me and wished me a nice day, to which I think I expired all the breath out of my lungs that I had been holding in, scurried back into the car, and we continued on our way. As we drove along, my mind started to think about the 'what ifs'...I could have been detained, made to pay a fine, what if the other volunteer hadn't been there to offer some credence to my presence there...so I was pretty jacked up by the time I got back to the hostel. I spilled the whole story to my host family, who assured me that I really only needed a copy of my passport for trips like that, and after I was a little calmer, we had a good laugh about the whole thing, and I received some razzing from them over the course of the next few days, most often gesturing their arms like they had handcuffs on whenever I entered the room!

My last day of basketball was also this same week...as you can see from the attached picture, I usually have to defend against a whole host of fouls, laughing the whole time at the kids' methods of getting the ball, no matter how illegal they might be! But no matter what the score is, they have a blast and we still end the game as friends.

OK, so I know I´ve been saying that the home visits have been my absolute favorite part of this project from the very first week, and it´s only gotten better over the 3 months that I´ve been here. As I often tell my patients, it´s all about the little things...and the last 2 weeks with my home visit kiddos were definitely about celebrating their little achievements that we had been working on for a while. I´ll start with the 2 children I visit in Cancas, another fishing village about 30 minutes by car north of Màncora. She survived a bout with meningitis when she was 4, and now at the age of 7 presents with cerebral palsy-like symptoms. I know I´m not supposed to have favorites, but I have to say that she was. I was working a lot on spontaneous movement with her, basic developmental-appropriate milestones, and one of the toys I brought with me was a bumble ball, or a battery-powered vibrating ball with soft nubs on it. She absolutely loved it, and whenever I put it on her back or stomach or other ticklish spot, she would let out the greatest belly laugh I have ever heard...one that started in her toes and rumbled up out of her! Sometimes I think I selfishly did it to the point of exhausting her because I loved hearing it so much!! But it was so great to get her moving spontaneously and using her muscles reflexively. In one of her last sessions, I placed her on her stomach, and then looked up to answer a question from her mom, and when I looked back down at her, she was staring back up at me with the biggest smile on her face...she had rolled over completely on her own! My mouth dropped open, followed by the most beaming smile back at her, and I don`t think I´ve ever said "muy bien" so many consecutive times or with as much enthusiasm as I did that day! The other child I have been visiting in Cancas has autism and is 15 years old, although developmentally he looks closer to 9 or 10. He took quite a while to get accustomed to me, and the past 3 months we have been working on increasing his socialization opportunities, the biggest undertaking being to bring him to the center one afternoon a week to be around and interact with kids his age. It has been truly amazing to watch him transform, as he has visibly decreased his oral fixations, increased his eye contact with people, and generally is more social if even a little bit. My last 2 visits with him were with the new volunteer, and with the 2 extra hands just in case they were needed to chase after him if he escaped, we took him to the beach and played with him in the sand, picking up shells and rocks, watching the waves, even though he was a little overwhelmed with all the sensory experiences at first, he was reluctant to leave when we started back to his house! My last visit I decided he was going to get a special treat, so we walked all the way to the town center, skipping and swinging him between us, wandered through the market stalls, looking at all the fruits and vegetables for sale that he loved smelling, then having him select a soda and making him give the money to the vender...it was the highlight of my 3 months in working with him as we sat outside the market, him slurping away and then looking down to see his hand in the gravel behind us, seeking out the texture that 2 days before he was freaking out over! He was the most content and happy boy as we returned to his house...huge progress from when I first started with a child that was so scared and aggressive.

So the other town the center makes home visits to is El Alto, about a 45-minute bus ride south of Màncora, a journey and project I believe I have blogged about previously, particularly the sewing project I worked on with one of the older girls. I started out seeing only 2 children there, and my last visit we had a total of about 7 kiddos! The new therapy room in the home of one of the kids we visit has helped tremendously, as it is a central location and the moms can just drop by whenever they get a chance during the morning or early afternoon. I must say that I`ve become most attached to the littlest one that we visit, who is only 3 and has a degenerative disease called leukodystrophy. Her mom is one of the toughest women I know, devoting so much to her only child, and doing it all by herself as the father skipped out as soon as she was diagnosed. She has lost all voluntary movement, vision, the ability to swallow, speak, and hearing in one ear. She was hospitalized with double pneumonia for 2 weeks in August, and has a feeding tube in her stomach. There is no cure, and the last thing the disease affects is the respiratory system, so she will die from not being able to breathe. My last session with her I think I cried the whole time, gently massaging her delicate limbs, trying to soak up all of her sweetness and innocence despite what this disease has done to her body. Another little girl who I have visited since the beginning is another child who had a fever at a very young age, and now presents with cerebral-palsy typed symptoms. I have been working most with her on sensory stimulation and getting her to interact with her environment with switch-type devices. We´ve also been working on basic developmental milestones with her as well, and on her last session, as you can see from the picture, she is propping up on her elbows and lifting her head simultaneously for the very first time! Lots of hard work, but she loves to be silly too, and I always had time for that, especially when I get the best smile and laugh from her in return! My last visits to all of them I was inconsolable basically, but it was so comforting to be sharing tears with all the moms too, and realizing that I was just as grateful for the opportunity to know them and work with their children as they were for the progress we had made. In a country where the culture hides away those with disabilities, it´s so easy to do the simplest things to make these kids feel like all-stars, and I have loved every minute of it!

My last weekend in Màncora I wanted to surf as much as I could! I headed out on Saturday with another volunteer, and the waves were a good size, so it was pretty crowded and a fight for each wave. I caught a few good ones, ran into someone, and also got run into, but it was the perfect last outing running the waves of Màncora! The sunset that day was I think the most beautiful I had seen as it sank down behind all the fishing boats lined up at the end of the day. My last week was also filled with gorging myself on the desserts or "postres" that I have come to love about Màncora! I had my whole week scheduled as far as which restaurant and which baked goodness I would be imbibing meal by meal and day by day. Attached is a picture of the chocolate fudge explosion perfected by vanilla ice cream that is called the TNT by the restaurant that creates this magnificence of dessert, just one of the gloriously rich decadences I re-experienced my last week in Màncora.

OK, so now to the hardest thing I´ve had to write so far...my last day at the center. I arrived that afternoon to all the kids with big hugs and them leading me inside for a surprise ceremony instead of their lesson that day. Now, I knew I was going to cry and had been steeling myself for it, getting a little out of my system I thought with each home visit that I said goodbye that week, but I had no idea the waterworks that would occur this day. I was presented with gifts: a metal cross one of the volunteers had welded together and the chain being crocheted by another of the teachers, and also a red seed that is a symbol of luck in Perù. There were songs, and some of the kids even got up and gave little speeches...my pride at their courage beamed through my tears. As I´ve written before, the kids are very sensitive to any expression of emotion, so at all times, I was surrounded by a minimum of 2 or 3 or them, at most was about 6, all wiping away my tears and putting their arms around my shoulders in order to comfort me, which of course made me cry even harder. The woman that founded the center, who has become a huge role model for me, got up to say a message of goodbye for this time, but not forever, and as she was holding back tears, I couldn´t seem to hold back mine as she enveloped me in a hug that I not only received as a volunteer but also as her friend and family. I got a hug from each one of the kids, as I wet their shoulders and squeezed each of them as hard as I could. Thankfully, we headed outside to play one last game of Kiwi and I could focus on something else besides saying goodbye, as my face and all of my insides seemed to be burning by this point. Not sure if I have ever described the game of Kiwi before, but it is one of the kids´favorites, and now one of mine too! Two teams...chicos versus chicas...girls go first and try to knock down a pyramid of tin cans by throwing a soccer ball...if they are successful, the girls scatter as the last can goes down, and then the boys have to tag each one out with the ball before the girls can rebuild the pyramid. So there is a whole lot of running, sneaking, and mostly dashing for your life before you get beaned with the ball! If the boys manage to get every one of the girls out before they rebuild it, it`s their turn to knock down the pyramid. If the girls manage to rebuild it before all of them get knocked out, they get another chance to knock it down, which is usually what happens, but I think all of them, boys and girls, like the latter arrangement, as the girls love to run and evade, while the boys love to be the seekers and destroyers! As we neared the end of the game, I could sense that something was up, as the kids kept trying to keep me away from the center, telling me it wasn`t time to go in yet, even though I was really excited to do the activity with them that I had planned...face painting! Well, we never got around to it, as I was blindfolded and led back into the center, where all the moms, families and basically everyone that I had encountered while volunteering for 3 months in Màncora was there! In my shock I managed to say hello to most everyone I think, and there were more hugs, goodbye speeches, even a cake and dancing! I had gifts for all of the kids...a picture of each of them with me (taken over the course of the past 11 weeks) in a popsicle stick frame I had each of them decorate the previous week. And then I gave the photo album of the highlights of my time with them to the woman that founded the center and all the teachers. Of course I was crying through all of this, as you can imagine, but I was not at all prepared for what came next. As I realized what time it was and that I basically had a half hour til my bus took me from Màncora, I started frantically hugging and saying goodbye to everyone present, when one of the older girls came up to me, unhooked the crucifix from around her neck and pressed it into my hands, saying it was gift to remember her by. I was speechless at first, and then just started sobbing as I pulled her close and enclosed her in a hug that said only a shred of the gratitude and humility I felt at that very moment. As I sped away in a mototaxi back to my hostel, showered, and finished packing, I kept revisiting that exchange in my head, a necklace I had seen her wear every day, that was most likely her first communion or baptism gift, and each time coming unglued just thinking about the extraordinary memento she had given me and the message that came with it. As I came down the stairs of the hostel when my bus pulled up, since my hostel is also the bus station for the company I was travelling with, I think I was running on fumes, and at the sight of everyone gathered to see me off at the bus station, those from the center, from my hostel, other volunteers, and friends and family I had gotten to know...it was all a blur as I gave more hugs, speaking but not remembering of what through my tears, waving goodbye from my window seat, and slowly rolling out of town, towards Lima, and away from my home for the past 3 months.

This year has definitely been life changing for me with all the experiences I have had, but this project has been my favorite and I will never forget the center, the children that are it`s heart and soul, and the people at it`s core that make it run every day. I consider myself so blessed to be a part of that family for a short period, and hope that will always be the case.